Hiking the Grand Canyon: Rim to Rim* to Rim

I have always wanted to hike the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim traverse of the Grand Canyon. That is, start at one Rim, hike down to the Colorado River, hike up to the opposite Rim, then reverse back to the beginning.

From the South Kaibab Trail the North Rim is a long ways away...
From the South Kaibab Trail the North Rim is a long ways away…

I’ve done a single traverse before from the North Rim to the South Rim but never the R2R2R as it’s called. On the other hand, my significant other has done it a couple of times and keeps asking me to join her. So last week we set out to walk (WALK, not RUN!) the R2R2R of the Grand Canyon. We started mid morning on the South Rim and descended the South Kaibab Trail. Being in no hurry, we took a comfortable pace so that we could actually enjoy the hike and scenery. The weather was pleasant: clear skies, breezy, a bit cool at the top and a bit warm at the bottom.

There were many flowers in bloom along the trail. This is "Prince's Plume."
There were many flowers in bloom along the trail. This is “Prince’s Plume.”

After a refreshing stop at Phantom Ranch where we had lunch and drank plenty of fluids we began the hike up the North Kaibab Trail to the North Rim. The last of the spring snowmelt was rushing down Bright Angel Creek and the roar of the water was loud enough to make conversation difficult. Crossing the stream would have been foolish but there is no need: all crossings have well- built bridges.

Still a long way to go to reach the Colorado River.
Still a long way to go to reach the Colorado River.

By the time we reached Cottonwood campground it was time to eat again and we had dinner as the sun slipped below the high walls of Bright Angel Canyon. The wind, which normally diminishes in the evening, became stronger. First it was annoying, then it became strong enough to blow dirt. Finally, as we were a mile or so above Roaring Springs, the wind nearly blew me off my feet. The sun had already set and it was quite dark as we climbed this part of the trail. It’s narrow with substantial cliffs on the side. The thought of being blown off my feet and… well, you know… was unnerving. So, with only about 3 1/2 miles to go, we decided to err on the side of safety and we turned back.

Rock art in Bright Angel Canyon. Hikers had placed these small stones in the canyon wall.
Rock art in Bright Angel Canyon. Hikers had placed these small stones in the canyon wall.

We walked in the dark until about midnight and then took a nap on a queen-sized flat rock. Never thought I could fall asleep on a rock but it was easy. I awoke to stare at the stars and listen to the thundering of the water in Bright Angel Creek. What a magnificent place to be! Just the two of us — and whatever wild creatures may have been watching us.

We walked back to Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River and then began the difficult climb back up South Kaibab Trail. About halfway up we had a magnificent sunrise. Not too much later we saw some long-distance runners heading downhill towards us. We chatted for a minute and gave them some information on trail conditions. And then they were off.

If we had done this a day earlier, we would have seen two women running R2R2R in an attempt to beat the “Fastest Known Time” for women on this trail. And they succeeded!

And just a few days later the record was broken again!

I’m happy to walk the R2R2R. Running not required.

Trail running on the Arizona Trail near Walnut Canyon

The Arizona Trail is a National Scenic Trail from that traverses the state from Mexico to Utah. Currently 96% of the trail is complete. In the Flagstaff area are a couple of extraordinary sections of the trail — including the portion that runs along the rim of Walnut Canyon.

Within a few minutes of leaving the trailhead the trail drops down into a side canyon that provides an expansive view of the main canyon. But if you are running the trail you need to keep your eyes on the trail and not the view. This is a good reason to stop and take a good look — or a photograph — before resuming the run.

Arizona Trail along the edge of Walnut Canyon.
Arizona Trail along the edge of Walnut Canyon.

Portions of this trail have been re-routed recently. This includes the sections that drop down into and climb back out of the side canyon. The old sections were becoming eroded and difficult to maintain. The new sections have a more gradual slope and will shed water better so that the trail resists erosion.

One of the best features of this trail run is heading out to one of the many overlooks and peering into the canyon. Because this area was inhabited by the Sinagua there are many artifacts lying around and with sharp eyes pieces of pottery are easily spotted. Enjoy — but please leave them where you found them!

This run is 8-miles out and back and has a lot of climbing — in both directions. The trail is well marked and can be quite busy at times with hikers, runners, mountain bikers, and equestrians. Share the trail and enjoy!

Springtime mountain biking at Bootleg Canyon

Although Bootleg Canyon Mountain Bike Park, located near Boulder City, Nevada, has been well-known and popular as a mountain biking area for a fairly long time I only recently learned of it. IMBA includes Bootleg Canyon as one of their Epics — rides that show what is possible for trail recreation on public lands.

Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: Inner Caldera.
Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: Inner Caldera.

On a couple of cool spring days with clear blue skies and breezy winds we set out on some of the beginner and intermediate trails to learn a bit about this area. The cross-country trails are great fun with ups-and-downs, some tight twisty turns as well as flowing single track lines, and some fun technical sections.

Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: I.M.B.A.
Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: I.M.B.A.

The DH lines are far more challenging and, well, we didn’t try those. Not this time, at least. Perhaps another visit.

Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: West Leg.
Mountain biking trails in Bootleg Canyon: West Leg.

It’s amazing to be riding these desert trails and then look off into the distance and be able to see the glitter of Las Vegas in one direction, Lake Mead in another, and the rugged mountains in yet another.

We’ll be back.

Amazing colors at Petrified Forest National Park

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Although I have lived in Arizona for over a decade I have never visited Petrified Forest National Park even though it is only a two hour drive from Flagstaff. We usually drive by the Park entrance while heading somewhere else and promise ourselves that we will visit it someday.

A petrified tree in the Crystal Forest area.
A petrified tree in the Crystal Forest area.

Finally — we visited the Park. And it’s truly amazing. But not just for the petrified remains of 225 million year old trees from the Late Triassic. The colors that can be found here are simply beautiful. Within Petrified Forest National Park, the layers of the colorful Chinle Formation — from which the Painted Desert gets its name — include the Blue Mesa Member, the Sonsela Member, the Petrified Forest Member, and the Owl Rock Member.

Multi-colored vistas of the Blue Mesa Badlands.
Multi-colored vistas of the Blue Mesa Badlands.

The Blue Mesa Member consists of thick deposits of grey, blue, purple, and green mudstones and minor sandstone beds.

The Petrified Forest Member consists of thick sequences of reddish mudstones and brown sandstone layers and the Owl Rock Member consists of pinkish-orange mudstones mixed with hard, thin layers of limestone.

Detail of a petrified tree. Petrified wood at Petrified Forest National Park is almost solid quartz.
Detail of a petrified tree. Petrified wood at Petrified Forest National Park is almost solid quartz.

The Sonsela Member contains brown, cross-bedded sandstone; blue, grey, and purple mudstones and numerous small grey and white sandstone beds; and white cross-bedded sandstone and conglomerate of rounded pebbles and cobbles which contains the logs of the Rainbow Forest.

Petroglyphs at the Puerco Pueblo site in Petrified Forest National Park.
Petroglyphs at the Puerco Pueblo site in Petrified Forest National Park.

And there are also archeological sites including old pueblos and petroglyphs.

The final flight of the Discovery

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An era has come to an end as the NASA space shuttle Discovery landed earlier this week after a successful mission to the International Space Station (ISS). This was the last flight for Discovery and it will now be retired to a museum.

After Discovery undocked from the ISS their orbits began to separate with the shuttle flying across the sky a few tens of seconds earlier than the ISS. On the night before returning to Kennedy Space Center, the ISS and Discovery made two evening twilight passes across the southwestern United States.

ISS and STS-133 transiting the northern sky above the San Francisco Peaks.
ISS and STS-133 transiting the northern sky above the San Francisco Peaks.

The first pass came early in the evening with a still bright twilight sky. The ISS and Discovery only rose to about 17 degrees above the horizon and this made it easy to capture an image with the San Francisco Peaks and the Kachina wetlands in the same photograph.

ISS and STS-133 climbing out of the western sky and entering the Earths shadow as they approach the lunar disk.
ISS and STS-133 climbing out of the western sky and entering the Earths shadow as they approach the lunar disk.

About 95 minutes later a second pass occurred. This time the two spacecraft arose from the western sky and climbed higher towards the crescent moon before disappearing into the Earths shadow.

Only two more shuttle missions remain and then, truly, it will be the end of an era.