In a normal year we would not hike up this canyon in the summer because of the threat of thunderstorms and flooding. But this year has been anything but normal when it comes to rain and the monsoon season. So during one of the many long stretches of dry weather we returned to West Fork Oak Creek canyon and hiked up about 5 miles (or about 2 miles beyond the “end of trail” sign) upstream.
Because of the lack of rain some of the canyon vegetation was stressed. Ferns were already withering. Leaves were turning brown and even falling from the trees. The outlook for a vibrant and colorful fall leaf season isn’t looking good.
But the hike was fine and the water was clear and visitor traffic was low–especially beyond the end of trail.
Blackberries can be found at the very beginning of the trail.A primrose peaks out from a field of ferns. This was one of the better looking patch of ferns showing mostly green.Numerous large reflecting pools can be found in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.This is the “subway tunnel” at the end of the maintained trail. Hikers can continue upstream for many miles but there isn’t much of a trail.This is the upstream end of the subway tunnel in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.High walls tower above the stream in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.Upstream there is another set of narrows. This used to be a narrow stream but sand and gravel has dammed the downstream end and now the water is several inches deep.Looking downstream at the pool and the sinuous curves of the canyon.Butterflies and wildflowers in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.A natural amphitheater and wildflowers in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.Monkshood wildflowers.Larkspur wildflowers in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.Lush greenery found in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.A young deer hides in the tall greenery in West Fork Oak Creek canyon.
Our next hike up the canyon will probably be in mid winter when ice covers the stream allowing passage through the various narrows.
West Fork Oak Creek. This is the “Subway” section of the canyon.
A week of cold overnight temperatures has allowed ice to form on West Fork of Oak Creek–so this was a good time to hike the canyon. Winter visitation is fairly light so getting a parking spot is easy and we encountered only a handful of hikers on the trail. So it is definitly more enjoyable in the winter.
Icicles hang from the canyon wall in West Fork Oak Creek.There are no waterfalls in West Fork Oak Creek. This is the closest thing with a small cascade of water pouring over the sandstone.Intricate designs in the ice abound in the canyon. This was also an attempt at focus stacking.
There was ice on the creek but there was also open areas of running water. It required some care making the numerous stream crossings to step on logs or rocks and not to put too much weight on the ice. A big difference from previous winter hikes was the lack of snow. Although we carried foot traction devices (i.e., Kahtoola microspikes) we did not need them.
At the “Subway”, a narrow, high-walled section of the canyon with wall-to-wall water, the ice was probably not thick enough to ensure safe passage through this section. Some of it was firm but there was still open water in the middle of the channel. Opting for safety, we let this be our turn-around spot.
There are several cliffs in the canyon with significant water seeps. Water drips from the large icicles and refreezes at the ground creating free-standing ice stalactives as well as encasing grasses and small stems in strange and bizarre shapes.
There are several cliffs in the canyon with significant water seeps. Water drips from the large icicles and then refreezes at the ground creating free-standing ice stalactites as well as encasing grasses and small stems in strange and bizarre shapes.
Ice sculpture from dripping icicles above.Detailed view of ice crystals in West Fork Oak Creek.
I looked back at the many times we have done this in the winter and the conclusion that I can draw is that it requires multiple nights of sub-zero temperatures (generally -5 to -10°F or colder) to produce safe ice. The recent cold temperatures were single-digit readings but above zero. Not cold enough.
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Here are some older entries about hiking West Fork in the winter:
October and November brings color to the foliage in northern Arizona. This year, however, the colors have been subdued and the color change has been over an extended period of time rather than a sharp peak. Nonetheless, it’s always a fun time to get out and photograph. These photographs were taken between October 10 and November 1.
October 10, 2023
Lockett Meadows, the Inner Basin, and the San Francisco Peaks.Lockett Meadows, the Inner Basin, and the San Francisco Peaks.Fallen aspen leaves cover the Waterline Road in the San Francisco Peaks.A ridge is covered with aspen as seen from the Inner Basin Trail.
October 19, 2023
Aspen along the Veit Springs trail on the San Francisco Peaks.
October 30, 2023
Red maple leaves in Harding Springs, Oak Creek Canyon.Fallen maple leaves in Harding Springs, Oak Creek Canyon.Maple tree, Harding Springs, Oak Creek Canyon.
November 1, 2023
Apple leaves, Call Of The Canyon picnic area, Oak Creek Canyon.Maple tree, West Fork Oak Creek trail.A sunlit wall is reflected in a pool in West Fork Oak Creek.Fallen leaves sit atop the water in a tranquil pool in West Fork Oak Creek.Bright yellow maple leaves arch across the West Fork Oak Creek trail.
The color continues to migrate into the lower elevations. Middle and lower sections of Oak Creek Canyon have yet to hit their peak.
Running water and ice fill the shaded depths of West Fork Oak Creek.
It has been a few years since we have done a winter hike up the West Fork of Oak Creek. This is mainly because of overcrowding in the canyon and a full parking lot. But earlier this week we passed by the entrance and noted that the parking lot was nearly empty. We already had plans for that day but decided to hike the following day.
This wall of ice greets hikers at the very beginning of the West Fork Trail.Overnight refreezing creates amazing ice patterns.One of the 13 stream crossings along the West Fork Trail.Beautiful with snow and ice but this location is also amazing during the fall when the trees are in full color.There is an overhanging wall that drips water constantly and produces amazing icicles and ice sculptures.A natural ice scupture from dripping water. What does it look like to you?Another overhanging wall with icicles framing the sunlit wall on the other side of the canyon.The end of the West Fork trail where water spreads from side to side (“The Subway”). This can easily be waded in the summer but requires an extended deep freeze for the ice to thicken in the winter. While it may look like open water it is actually clear ice about an inch or so thick.
We have done this hike in the winter enough times to know that having solid foot traction gear is necessary as well as a set of hiking poles. With those aids, we had very little trouble hiking to the end of the established trail (~3.2 miles). As noted at the trailhead, there are 13 stream crossings and each one had ice-covered rocks and/or logs to step on. The trail was a combination of packed snow and ice.
We saw only a few people at the start of the hike and none after the first half-mile or so. On the way back, we encountered a few hiking parties intent on reaching the end of the trail and they were close enough that I have little doubt that they made it. As we got closer to the trailhead we ran into several parties that were ill-equipped to be doing this winter hike.
This winter hike is best right after a snowstorm but that can mean having to break trail through the snow. We’ve done that and it was a workout. But the payoff in snow-covered cliffs and creek are worth the effort.
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Here are some older entries about hiking West Fork in the winter:
